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MoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
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‘Man Ray and Fashion’, on view through 13.08.2023, explores, amongst others, the influence of Man Ray on Belgian designers, including Dirk Van Saene.⁠ ⁠ From 1922, Man Ray perfected the photogramme technique, in which objects are placed between a light source and light-sensitive paper. He rediscovered the technique by accident while developing fashion photographs for Paul Poiret and called them Rayographs, after himself. It is not unthinkable that the strong graphic quality and flatness of his rayographs were an inspiration for Elsa Schiaparelli when, in 1927, she added trompe l’oeil bows to her knitted sweaters.⁠ ⁠ Man Ray and Elsa Schiaparelli had first met in New York in 1919. They each moved to the French capital around the same time, where Poiret introduced them both to the Parisian fashion world. Man Ray photographed the fashion designer during the 1930s, and his particular visual language reappeared in her collections. Belgian fashion designer Dirk Van Saene has continued to carry on this visual dialogue.⁠ ⁠ The black-and-white contrast in the knitwear on the left was inspired by Rubin’s vase. In 1915, the Danish psychologist Edgard Ruben used this optical illusion to illustrate bi-stable perception: you see either a white vase or two black faces, but never both at the same time.⁠ ⁠ With the inlaid trompe-l’oeil bow on the right, Dirk Van Saene was referring to knitwear by Schiaparelli. He called the collection Fake Tailoring.⁠ ⁠ From the MoMu Collection, exhibition view by Stany Dederen:⁠ ⁠ 1) - 2) Dirk Van Saene, Autumn-Winter 2008-09;⁠ 3) Dirk Van Saene, Autumn-Winter 2019-20;⁠ 4) Dirk Van Saene, Autumn-Winter 1998-99.⁠ ⁠ #MoMuAntwerp #MoMuManRay #ManRay #DirkVanSaene #AntwerpSix #BelgianFashion #Surrealism #Schiapareli #ElsaSchiaparelli⁠