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Symon Welfringer
@symon9v

17,005 followers

The Alien Wall, Choktoi glacier 👽 Opening new route on Baintha Kabata, Ogre’s son (6290m) ✅ in the mist of bad weather and poor conditions. 🌨️ July 2023 The last 40 days together with @francoiscazzanelli and @silvanschupbach, we’ve been busy trying to climb some cool stuff in the Pakistanese Himalaya. We headed to Choktoi glacier with the main goal of finishing the climb of the South-east pillar of Ogre culminating at around 7150m. After an amazing acclimatization by skis, going up to 6000m and enjoying really cool ski descents among those giant mountains, we were ready to give a proper go on the route. Sadly, the weather window were maximum 2 to 3 days duration cutted by heavy snowfalls. On our attempt we were stopped quite early by the arriving of a strong and unexpected snowstorm, given the 20cm of snow in short time and the avalanche hazard growing, we decided to turn back. Given that the proper weather window wouldn’t arrive for a try on Ogre, Francois decided to left a bit earlier and we continued the trip by 3 with Matteo and Silvan. Last week, we decided to optimize a smaller window of only 2 and a half day of « pretty » good weather and focused our eyes on the unclimbed south face of Baintha Kabata (6290m). After a long approach by skis, we’ve be rewarded by a really cool climb on this steep wall. And in two days, we managed to open : The Alien Wall 1000m / 7a / M5 Compare to our main goal on Baintha brakk, this felt like a consolation gift. But the conditions in Karakoram this year were really tricky and we mangage to keep a safety margin most of a the time. Still, this climb on Kabata felt amazing with solid rock all along and some amazing crack pitches especially on the higher part. This peak has been first ascended by @colinhaley1 and Maxime turgeon back in 2008 by a line on the very right and then behind the south face. This trip was also full of other low altitude climbs around the camp that we’ll detail soon. Pic 1 : summit of Kabata Pic 2 : Silvan in a nice offwidth middle in the face. Pic3 :the south face of Baintha Kabata Continue in comments ! #pakistan #expedition #karakorum #bainthabrakk