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Diet Prada ™
@diet_prada

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In May, Sabato De Sarno succeeded Alessandro Michele as creative director of @Gucci, and today he delivered his first collection for the Italian luxury brand. Did it live up to the expectation? There’s no doubt De Sarno has the chops, having honed his skills at Prada and Valentino, and it’s expected to see some of that influence. There were traces of Miuccia’s signature idiosyncrasy in the elevation of the banal, and it had some of the minimal elegance of Valentino’s beautiful tailoring. There were even nods to the retro-tinged glitz of Michele’s Gucci for those still lamenting his departure. While polished and undeniably luxe, it was hard to single out an idea that felt like it would usher in a new era in the way that Tom Ford and Alessandro Michele were able to. De Sarno entered Gucci at a very different landscape, though. With sales and prestige slumping prior to the Ford and Michele eras, there was little to lose then—something that emboldened creativity and rewarded risk-taking. Like Ford before him, Michele’s vision reverberated through the industry and had a massive influence on how people approached dressing, all while racking up billions for Kering (9.73 billion euros in 2021 to be exact). The expectation to keep pace with that breakneck growth was evident in how safe and commercial the collection skewed. You could almost feel the heavy hand of teams of merchants dictating their own needs—Jackie bags seemingly with every look, logos and monogram, albeit in a more subdued “quiet luxury” way, and too many items that we’ve already seen before. But in many ways, it’s exactly aligned with where the industry is at. There’s just so much more driving fashion than provocative concepts and cool narratives. When it was announced that that Gucci and Michele were parting ways late last year, it was believed that it was due to a failure to deliver an aesthetic pivot. Do you think De Sarno delivered what they were looking for? Photos by @filippofior #gucci #mfw #fashionweek #runway #model #milan #designer #sabatodesarno #alessandromichele #tomford #coat #miniskirt #pumps #pencilskirt #leather #wiwt #ootd #explore #reels #instagood #lace #slip #wool #dietprada