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Word on the Grapevine 🍇
@wordonthegrapevine

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The 2020 Bartolo Mascarello Barbera d’Alba is a steal at @cicciocentrostorico for less than any bottle of plonk in most regular British restaurants. Nevertheless, it’s a potent example of how, when rising prices of top wines percolate a given producers entire range buyers with big expectations might be disappointed. And, how going off-piste, or buying beyond labels can pay dividends when buying bottles like these. The same can be said for entire regions, as in Burgundy, where rising prices can be misleading in terms of value and quality. @wgfkelley has done a great job of highlighting quality producers in lesser-explored communes, and recently in Champagne too. In this instance, Maria Teresa’s Barolo is firmly among my favourite wines, my annual visit to taste the new release has become one of my most anticipated. But at at least £60 on any British list, this Barbera struggles to deliver good value, despite being made by MT. For the same price or less, drinkers could buy a Barbera, Dolcetto Langhe Nebbiolo, or even a Barolo/Barbaresco from a lesser-known producer or classification which is more likely to offer good value. Of course, none of this is to say that MT’s Barbera isn’t delicious, it is. But, unless you’re drinking these bottles from a reasonable allocation or at a local restaurant, you might be rewarded more for looking beyond a label and exploring the list in greater detail. Moral of the story, go hunting, you’ll find great wine. On the other hand, if you don’t care about pricing, drink all the B. Mascarello you can, you’ll not be sad. #bartolomascarello #barolo #barbera #barberadalba