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Without question the greatest perk of wine writing is getting the scoop on new and emerging talent, whether directly during my own travels or as recommendations from trusted friends. @stefano_occhetti is a textbook example of such a talent. Stefano and I had been in touch via Instagram for some time and had tried to arrange multiple visits before I finally made it to his house in Monteu Roero, Roero this April. From a converted garage beneath his family home, where space demands frequent reordering of the cellar, Stefano is producing a small range (Barbera dโAlba, Langhe Nebbiolo, Roero DOCG Sanche, Arneis, and a sparkling Nebbiolo) of impressive wines. The engineer-turned-vigneron recently returned home to farm 1.8ha of Roero vineyards planted by his grandfather in the 1960s.ย Initially, Stefano borrowed equipment from nearby relatives and farmed the land solo. Today, vineyard work is considerate and almost entirely manual, not least due to the steepness of Stefanoโs vineyardsโthe jeep climb is nail biting. In the winery, Stefanoโs work is artisanal, meticulous and exploratory. Arneis undergoes a cold-soak, fermentations are spontaneous in varying vessels (concrete, French oak and steel), nebbiolo can be floating or submerged cap depending on cuvee, maceration times differ similarly, as do malo percentages, and ageing vessels and duration. Clearly there is no set recipe, neither circumstance nor inclination allow it. Crucially, Stefano is not burdened by familial obligation or overbearing local traditions. His pursuit is simply to make fine wines which showcase the distinctness of his nearby vineyards and his own work as a winemaker. Keep a keen on eye current and future releases! #nebbiolo #roero #langhewine #piedmontwine
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